Chef’s Background and Inspiration

Can you tell us a little bit about yourself and your background?

I was born in Istanbul in 1971. I grew up in Ankara and came to Istanbul in 1990 to study Economics at Marmara University. I didn’t have good grades at school, actually it took me 7 years to finally graduate. Being part of a family from Konya, a city famous for its cooking, and with a mother who cooked well, I was always intrigued with cooking. I even started dreaming about opening a restaurant or cafe in my university years.  When I finally finished my undergraduate degree, I came to the United States to attend NOVA CC in Virginia to pursue this interest. After completing my culinary education, I worked at a few restaurants in Virginia. After 9/11, I decided to move back to Turkey and build on my experience with Turkish cuisine.  In Turkey, I worked at Konyali restaurant, a 100 year old culinary institution that specializes in traditional Ottoman cuisine. Then, I joined the kitchen staff of Marriott Istanbul, the first five star hotel to open on the Asian side in Istanbul. In 2008, I was offered a position with the Istanbul Culinary Education as a chef instructor.

What prompted you to become a chef?

There wasn’t an epiphany moment but I’ve wanted to cook from a young age. The first time I decided to try to cook something was when I was in my third year in elementary school. I was 10. An old lady used to cook and sell Turkish meatballs outside of our school.  We were only allowed to eat these meatballs once a week. Frustrated with this restriction and prompted by my craving, one day, I came home and tried making my own meatballs.  I am glad to say, I have improved my cooking since.  

I also recall, when I was in Konya, the first time when I was incredibly impressed with the process of cooking. My parents bought a whole lamb and cooked it for five to six hours. The result was simply incredible. 

Another memorable moment was when a friend of my father brought a rabbit, a rather unusual food for me at the time, and we cooked it in our summer home in Datca. 

Why did you decide to pursue culinary arts after completing a degree in Economics? What made you change your career direction?

I never liked office work.  After I finished my undergraduate studies, a four year program in seven years, I decided to go to school for cooking and came to the US.  I really like cooking.   I also find it very rewarding to teach.  Helping people create something from nothing and watch them enjoy their own creations is a great experience.

Do you have a Turkish chef who inspires you?

No. In Turkey, it is only in the recent years that chefs are opening their own restaurants and more Turkish chefs are becoming well known.  Even at reputable restaurants at larger and famous hotels, the management used to bring in foreign chefs and served foreign dishes to cater to their clientele. I am pleased to see that this is changing now and we have more respect to the depth of our own cuisine and culinary arts in general.

What are your career plans for the future?

I think every chef dreams of opening their own restaurant or cafe one day.  Istanbul can be a difficult city to live in. In the future, I would like to move to a small town on the Aegean or Mediterranean coast, and open a cafe or a restaurant there.  I don’t know when and where yet but, this has been my dream since my university years.

Cooking Tips, Techniques, Preferences

What is a spice/product you use a lot in your cooking?

Dill. I think Turkish cuisine makes extensive use of dill.

Can you share with us your approach to cooking and food shopping for your home?

I actually don’t cook much at home. My wife cooks. She is a good cook.  As for the school, the school owns a farm and we get most of our supplies from there.  We try to use seasonal and fresh vegetables and fruits in our kitchens.

What are some of the Turkish cookbooks you like or refer to often?

Yes, there are some.   One book I like is from Nevin Halici, “Turkish Cook Book”.  My cousin Ozge Samanci who is a food historian, also wrote a book I like; “19. Century Ottoman Cuisine” .  The“History of Turkish Cuisine” created by the Department of Tourism and “Flavours of the Street” from Hande Bozdogan are also both good compilations on our cuisine.

Do you have a dish that you created?

Yes, I recently cooked celeriac in olive oil and cherry juice. (Check out Chef Samanci’s recipe on EAT).  The celeriac dish is a well known dish in Turkey but the traditional, as you know, wouldn’t have cherries.  Another one I created is beets in olive oil.  The category of what we call “Olive Oil dishes” in Turkey is very unique to our cuisine. Turkish cuisine uses the excellent quality olive oil from our land and makes great use of vegetables for this category of dishes. 

Turkish Cuisine

What do you think differentiates the Turkish cuisine from other world cuisines?

I think the most important difference is how the Turkish cuisine uniquely brings together Eastern and Western influences over centuries into a rich heritage. Through the last century, the Ottoman palace had been exploring other world cuisines for Sultan’s pleasure and introduced new dishes and techniques to our culture. Over many centuries, the influence of various cultures and cuisines such as those of Jewish, Armenian or Greek living in this region allowed the Turkish cuisine to become a unique blend of various food cultures.  The rich regional creations and varieties also add further complexity and depth to what this cuisine has to offer. Turkey has a total of 7 regions each with its own distinctive recipes and creative additions to this country’s cuisine.

Another possible differentiator is a separate category of dishes which we call olive oil dishes in Turkey. Turkey is a significant producer and exporter of excellent quality olive oil. It is also the only country with a dedicated category for the olive oil dishes, making extensive use of vegetables grown in our countries’ various regions and climates.

What do you think about how Turkish cuisine is taught or represented outside of Turkey?

I think it is definitely inadequate. Outside of Turkey, our cuisine is not well understood.  Perhaps in Europe, there is more of an appreciation than there is in America or Asia. There is still a lot to be explored and shared about this cuisine.

What do you think is the most essential ingredient of Turkish cuisine?

Onions.  They are used extensively in our cuisine.

Over the last 20 years, how do you think the Turkish cuisine has changed and what are some important differences between the traditional and modern Turkish cooking?

Since my childhood, I see that the use of meat is slowly being diminished in the application of our cuisine. I don’t like this change, but with healthier eating habits globally, I also think this change is natural. Although I agree with ways and reasons of healthy eating, I also wish that we would keep and continue to create the authentic meat dishes from our cuisine.

Eating and Drinking

What is your favorite Turkish dish?

Dolma; stuffed grape leaves with meat filling. It is a classic.

What is your favorite restaurant in Istanbul?

I like small, hole-in-the-wall type restaurants.  For example, there is a restaurant called Sahin next to the school. We always sneak out to eat there.  The food is excellent. I also like Ciya in Kadikoy famous for its authentic Turkish food.

For our foodie readers, what neighborhood in Istanbul do you think is a must see?

Beyoglu I think definitely has a lot to offer. Then there is Galata Kulesi and Misir Carsisi. Both are quite interesting, but my favorite is Beyoglu. There are also nice seafood restaurants along the Bosphorus.

What is your favorite Turkish drink?

Ayran.  Sherberts are also an old Turkish tradition that is coming back to life.  One I like is Rose Sherbert.  “Sirken Cebun” made with vinegar, honey and water is also great and is an excellent drink for detoxing. And of course, raki. 

What are your thoughts on the Turkish wines and wine industry?

I think Turkish wine sector has definitely a lot to offer with more producers and varieties of wine introduced to the market in the last 15 years.  However, the high tax rate currently imposed is not allowing us to compete effectively in the world market and introduce Turkish wines to a broader audience. After all,Turkey geographically is known to be a wine producing region older than many others in the world.

Thank you Mr. Samanci for sharing your background, views and tips with our readers. 

(This interview was conducted in Turkish and translated into English by Meltem K Cervantes.)

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